Quite simply, Charlotteville is our best stop yet. We haven't explored much so far, but first impressions are overwhelmingly positive. "Pirates Bay" where we are moored is a bay within the larger and equally evocative "Man of War Bay". We are moored close to the shore, framed by beautiful lush forest down to the waters edge except for a gorgeous sandy beach....
Nearby are reefs surrounded by torquise waters and home to Pelicans, Boobies and other sea birds who keep up a constant pleasant chatter.
The village is nestled in a cleft in the hills is about a 10 minute dinghy trip away.
This social side of our experience here, is undoubtedly a big plus. I should not forget the locals, who are also very friendly and helpful - even more so than in Grenada.
We arrived around 1000 on Saturday 10th March and after greeting Lasse and Birgitte made our way over to the moorings in Pirates Bay.
No sooner had we picked up one than a friendly local came over in his motor launch to say that Customs and Immigration wanted us to visit them ASAP because they needed get to Scarborough, the main port at the other end of the island as a matter of urgency.bThen 10 minutes later as we were preparing the dinghy he was back with the Customs Officer. Initially she was a bit brusque but quickly became friendly once we had exchanged names. She wanted our passorts and ship's papers so they could get the check-in process underway whilst waiting for us.
Half an hour later we were ashore in the Tourism/Health office - clearly an extension to a family house. It was Saturday so the Officer had her two young kids with her which created a lovely informal atmosphere. After filling in a couple of forms to declare we were healthy and that no one had died on the passage, we went up the road to the Customs and Immigration offices at the back of the substantial Health Centre building.
First stop Customs where we met Natasha again, who this time was all smiles from the start. We filled out more forms clearly designed for commercial ships and paid the 'overtime' fee of about £40 (it was Saturday).
Then on to immigration and more forms and another overtime fee.
Then we bought the last two SIM cards in the village from a local entrepreneur. An interesting experience - it was not entirely clear whether the husband/wife team (she was out of town selling craft items at a fair in Scarborough and had to relay instructions to hubby over the phone) were authorised re-sellers, or just quick to spot an opportunity to make some extra cash from visitors. We paid TTD 203 but could see the Digicel price was TTD 177. A 15% mark up but than we didn't need to pay the bus fare or spend the time to travel to Scarborough.
Then it was back to the boat for a very late fry-up breakfast consisting of proper English back bacon from the supermarket in Grenada; fried plantain; fried tomatoes and fried eggs. Delicious. Then two hours sleep and then back to the shore to join the other Yachties for a takeaway barbecued supper on the village beach.
Sunday - what the hell happened on Sunday? Not a lot I think. Got up late and went ashore to shop.
CORRECTION... On Sunday morning we had breakfast with our new Swedish neighbours, Jan and Elli on board Jan's wonderful self built ferro-cement boat.
This was their "thank you" for towing them back to their boat the previous evening - they don't have an outboard motor and it's a long row from the village quay. We certainly got the best of the of the exchange. Such a wonderful couple. Jan is clearly a master craftsman with staying power. It took 10 years to build his boat and she is a delight to behold, but I have no pictures! Elli is dedicated to preserving the environment and is involed in all sorts of initiatives on that front.
After a wonderful breakfast with Jan and Elli we got ashore to shop and then back to the boat for dinner cooked by me - a sort of Bolognese with potatoes and Broccoli on the side.
Monday. Another slow start before heading to the village to shop once again. Ah yes, critical information... It's my 67th Birthday on Wednesday and we have decided to host a beach party with the other Yachties to celebrate - so we needed to shop - again!
First we needed lunch and so repaired to the local bar/cafe. Before long other yachties appeared. First the French couple, Damien and Fanny who with their 5 year old son, arrived from French Guyana earlier. Then Birgitte and Lasse and Jan and Elli. Of course more drinking and yarning ensued!
Then we did the shopping! Then back to the boat and then headed back to the village to meet up with the others because there was a rumour that excellent rum punch was to be had locally. It turned out to be just a rumour! So, to drown our sorrows we went to a bar and then a local restaurant to eat.
On the way we stopped to watch the local catch of the day - a Sailfish - being prepared for sale...
Today - yes you guessed it, another slow start! Then more shopping, then we rowed over to the beach to check it out for tomorrow's party. We noticed there was quite a swell running and so in the extremely unlikely event of it providing a challenge to a beach landing, we removed the outboard motor from the dinghy and rowed to the beach complete with dinghy anchor. The plan being to drop the anchor before hitting the beach, which should help keep the bows of the dinghy pointing towards the swell as we let it gently push the dinghy stern first onto the shore.
I was rowing the dinghy and in the swell just off the beach I turned stern on and Mick dropped the anchor. With me facing the beach I then rowed the dinghy backwards towards the shore as it serenely rode the swell. Suddenly I felt the bows of the dinghy being lifted near vertical by what must have been a particularly large breaking wave. Initially I struggled to keep the rearing dinghy at right angles to the breakers as we slid stern first at increasing speed down the wave. Then, as the nose of the dinghy passed the vertical I was flung fowards into the water. Two thoughts flashed through my mind. Firstly, that the solid transom of the dinghy might knock me out and secondly that the oars must shorely break under the strain.
Fortunately neither came to pass and as I looked round I saw Mick emerging from the surf miraculously clutching his glasses. "Now that was a worthwhile test" he said as we struggled to bring the dinghy under control and out of the clutches of the breakers.
Once we had done so we explored our immediate surroundings and they were quite stunning. We had been tossed onto a little strip of paradise..
A perfect setting for a party if only we and the others can get ashore without serious mishap.
Tune into the next post to find out whether we do!
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