Tuesday 30 January 2024

Mustique - Paradise or Workhouse?


Well, it depends on who you are! If you're one of the very rich property owners, it's no doubt paradise. The island, once at the heart of the Caribbean's sugare cane industry and therefore the slave trade, was bought from the sugar cane landlords when the industry collapsed with the advent of european sugar beet, by the Englishman Colin Tenant. It is now owned by the 'Mustique Comany' which in turn is ownwd by the property owners. It's purpose is of course to provide that paradise experience for the very rich and their guests and the not quite so rich who can afford to rent one of the 100 or so houses or stay in the plush Plantation Hotel. 

If you're one of the 1500 or so workers on the island, the answer is probably more complicated and I suspect will depend on what job you have and which of the very rich people you work for - if any. We didn't manage to speak to any of those who directly service the very rich property owners, but it seems reasonable to surmise that cultivating good relations with them will bring both financial and social rewards and benefits. Those working on developing and maintaining the infastructure and environment of the island must be completely dependent on their wages from the Mustique Company whilst those working in services such as in the few shops, the cafe and (apparently world famous) Basil's Bar, probably benefit from generous tipping. 

Our abilty to roam the island was heavilly curtailed by the need to preserve the guests privacy, but we got to know a French couple on another boat who managed to slip through the courdon and found the fishing 'village'. They were quite appalled by what they encountered - bare huts with bunks. The fishermen were obliged to sell their catch to the Mustique fish market and whilst I cannot be sure of this, I suspect, for a price dictated by the Musique Company. The fisherman who sold us some of his catch for an extremely modest price was risking his job and in so doing demonstrated the very low prices he must typically get from the Mustique fish market. 

We did talk to a couple of charming young women working in the island's services sector who confirmed that jobs on the island are plum jobs in the economy of Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, paying more than equivalent jobs in other parts of the country. However, the catch is of course, that wages for most local people in the islands are pretty low. A plum job for the locals in Mustique probably pays less than the minimum wage in most developed economies. We heared first hand from the two ladies that the employment of workers is subject to Dickensian-like terms and conditions. Only those employed or engaged directly by the Mustique Company are allowed to live on the island - no children or any other relatives are allowed. Any misdemeanor or perceived shortfall in conduct or performance is dealt with summarilly by instant removal from the island. The unhappy 'victim' is removed by plane the very same day, even if that means the compny has to arrange a special charter flight to perform the deportation! 

The 'elephant in the room' in all this is of course the history of slavery and racism. Today's Mustique workers (99.9% of which are black) aren't forced to work there and they are paid for their services (albeit under terms and conditions that most advanced economies outlawed years ago) but in terms of structural inequality, are they really much better off than their enslaved ancestors? Is the gap between their resources and lifestyle and the immense wealth and priveledge of their property owning 'clients', any less than that between slave and plantation owner? Who is really benefitting from Mustique? Local people in desperate need of work, or the immensley wealthy British and Americans who, as a direct result of the legacy of slavery, now own this carribbean jewel. Presumably the government of Saint Vicent and the Grenadines would point to significant tax revenues they raise from the Mustique Company, but even so...! 

Enough ranting - it is for all that, and perhaps partly because of it, a beautiful island surrounded by torquise waters....


.... with lots of turtles - which having lost my gopro in the surf in Barbados I was not able to photograp - sorry Ursula!

A Blues fesitival was also in full swing at Basils Bar whilst we were there and our French neighbours persuaded us to part with the $30 per head entrance fee (which apparently is donanted to a Children's charity on Saint Vincent). There's a rather bitter-sweet irony to the fesitival. The island that goes to such great lengths to keep the riff-raff like us away from their mega rich visitors, actually needs us to turn up to the festival to make up the numbers! To be fair at $30 per head it wasn't such a bad deal for some pretty good Blues!

   


       

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