A day in Falmouth and Goodbye

I get up around 0800 (Monday 8/9/25), collect my dirty clothes and wash things together and go ashore to do my washing and have a shower. I pay a day's mooring - £50! Marina's have got so expensive that staying for any longer than a day is almost out of the question.

I get my washing going and then have the shower, my first since Nanortalik more than two weeks ago. Bonny does have a shower, but the combination of an almost complete absence of sunshine on the passage, which meant our batteries were rarely fully charged (which supply power to the small immersion heater), and the generally very uncomfortable, not to mention cold, conditions, made the prospect of getting naked and (voluntarily) wet and therefore cold, a particularly unattractive one. 

This shower was therefore particularly welcome and I ignore the notice pleading with customers to keep their shower quick in the interests of preserving water. As far as I am aware there is no drought in Cornwall and I rather suspect the notice was motivated rather more by the desire to keep overheads down, than to ensure the population of Falmouth don't run out of water. Bugger that, I've just paid £50 for the privilege of mooring here and apart from the space on the pontoon, the shower is the only other thing included in the price. The washing machine and dryer have to be paid for separately.

After my shower I go in search of freshly baked bread for breakfast. In doing so I confirm a suspicion I have been harbouring for some time - there's a growing subterfuge taking place on trendy high streets and not just those in the UK, I noticed the same thing in St John's; increasingly, Bakeries are no longer places that bake bread! They bake all sorts of pastries and goodies (or at least display them on their counters) and don't get me wrong, I'm very partial to a sweet pastry, but it seems to me that if you've got a big sign over your real and virtual doorways, declaring yourself Cornwall's finest Bakery, the very least you should do to deserve the self anointed accolade, is to bake some bloody bread. Anyway, it meant I had to walk a little further than anticipated to find one that did, which was no great hardship because wandering around quaint Falmouth in the morning in search of breakfast is a rather nice way to spend the time. I actually started to feel like I was on holiday. Being clean and dry and only needing jeans and a T-shirt to wear, rather than god knows how many layers compressed beneath soggy oilskins certainly helped. Anyway I bought a freshly baked uncut white farmhouse loaf AND two croissants AND two pastries. Then on to the Tesco Express for bacon, mushrooms and tomatoes. Breakfast was going to be a serious fry-up!

On the way back I put my laundry in the dryer.

Back at the boat I get breakfast underway and once cooked we stuff ourselves royally. It's amazing how good wicked (but proper) white bread and butter tastes when you haven't had any for 4 weeks! Doorsteps with lashings of butter were used by both members of the crew to wipe their plates clean of bacon fat!!

After breakfast we tackle the few jobs, that need doing to prepare Bonny for the final leg of the circuit back to the Medway.

I unship the emergency forestay which shouldn't be needed any more and its absence will make tacking and gybing the boat single handed much easier. Then we refill the jerry cans with fuel. I decide it's pointless to refill the fuel tank given that one of the winter jobs will be to drain and clean the tank.

Next we fill the water tank which requires so much water it must have been very nearly empty.

Before stowing the jerry cans in their home under the cockpit sole, I lift the floor boards to check the stern gland and the bilge. The stern gland is dripping more than a healthy one should, but that's what I expect. What I didn't expect was that the deep part of the bilge had a fair amount of water in it. I thought we had pumped it all out earlier but clearly not.

Now that it looks almost certain that the stern gland is the main source of the leak, we reinstate the galley bilge pump and it takes me about 100 strokes to clear the bilge. Afterwards we stow the jerry cans.

With all the essential jobs done we walk into town - George looks at boats while I shop for provisions and then we go for a yummy cream tea.

We then return to the boat, collect George's bags and walk to the station where we say goodbye. It's been a memorable couple of months which, with the exception of the passage back, we have both really enjoyed. I don't think either of us will ever forget it, especially our  short time in Greenland.

Around 1730 I cast off Bonny's mooring lines with the help of Hugh's young crew and head out of the harbour, destination, Hoo on the River Medway and a wedding anniversary on the 12th.

An appointment in Falmouth 7/9/25

Brown Bear and Bonny moored up at Falmouth Yacht Haven on Monday evening 8th September. Photo by George.

I thought I had set my alarm for 0500 but didn't and awoke at 0710. Dam, we're late. I call George and the crew assembles as quickly as our groggy heads allow. 

We have a date in Falmouth this evening with Hugh and the rest of the Brown Bear crew. Brown Bear was in Greenland when we were there and we were briefly both in Nanortalik but didn't meet owing to their very quick stopover coinciding with our (mainly George's) works on the engine. They left the day after us and made Falmouth yesterday after our arrival in Hugh Town. We really want to meet and share our experiences.

So we drop our mooring and motor out of Hugh Town and make our way through the islands' south eastern approach/exit channel. The sea is pretty lumpy and despite white caps on the waves there is not much wind and so we continue under power.

Within an hour we are in a demented washing machine. The waves are by far the biggest we have experienced since leaving Greenland and probably the biggest I've ever seen. The fact that there is little wind makes the experience worse not better, because there is little pressure on the sails to steady the boat. We have two reefs in in anticipation of strong winds. We are only making a couple of knots under sail and at this rate will miss our tidal gate at the Lizard. So I get up to the mast and eventually succeed in shaking out the reefs. I get saturated again in the process.

It improves things a little but not enough so we press the engine into service once again in an attempt to power through what we hope is a localised area of really rough water caused by the relatively shallow and uneven bottom. We were expecting some chop to be leftover from the gale overnight but nothing like this!

Eventually after 2-3 hours the wind picks up and the sea subsides to a more reasonable state and we are able to make good progress under sail alone.

Our leak rate increases - not to crisis levels - but we need to pump out a couple of hundred strokes every six hours or so to empty the bilge (or at least until the cockpit bilge pump sucks air).

The day gradually becomes quite pleasant with warm sunshine and after the horrendous start to the short passage to Falmouth, we enjoy a good sail and pick up speed sufficiently to make the tidal gate off the Lizard. We run into overfalls there and have to power through another lumpy area although it's not as bad as earlier.

After the overfalls, which we get through at about 1800, we experience a delightful sail in the evening sunshine (and occasional shower) and moor up alongside Brown Bear at 2000. Unfortunately, the cloud arrives before us and so we didn't see the much vaunted Blood Moon.

Once moored up we are invited on board Brown Bear for drinks and to meet the crew.

Brown Bear's owner skipper, Hugh Clay is a delightful and most generous host. Clearly a very, very experienced and accomplished sailor he's a well known figure in the ocean sailing world. As a young man he sailed with the late great Willy Ker on one of his expeditions to Greenland in his Contessa 33 in 1987. Willy and Hugh were awarded the Royal Cruising Club's Tillman medal in recognition of their exploits in getting there and exploring such challenging waters. The only electronic aids they had on board were a GPS set that provided a position every 12 hours or so on a good day and a radio direction finding set. They must have been rather better at operating it than I was when trying to use my Dad's set back in the 1970's!

Hugj's crew were two young Spanish guys - very charming too. His boat is wonderful, custom built in wood and epoxy for the previous owner and designed by one of the Ocean Cruising Club's founding figures. We have G&T on board, then all head out for a Chinese, then back to Brown Bear for Coffee and a night cap and more story sharing. We discover that both Hugh and George have competed in the Three Peaks Challenge in memory of Bill Tillman (although in different years) and that Hugh's Uncle knew the designer of George's boat and that High's brother has a classic wooden Yawl based on the river Medway!

We also watched some incredible drone footage of Brown Bear in Labrador and Greenland. That's one of the reasons the youngsters were there, they flew the drone. They came across some really huge ice bergs, which rather put 'ours' in their place.

Eventually it's time for bed and George and I return to Bonny, fully satisfied with being able to round off our great adventure in such delightful and hospitable company.

Tomorrow afternoon, George catch's a train home and I set sail for the Medway on the final leg of a very eventful two year cruise!

Princ Christ' Sund to Hugh Town D' 13/14: 5-6/9/25

Bonny's sail plan for much of the passage.

My alarm wakes me at 0200 from possibly the soundest sleep I've had during the entire passage. We're still motoring. George and I have a quick chat - he has nothing of significance to report - and then he gets to bed.  

I check our progress and position and the weather to come and as a consequence feel rather pessimistic about getting in somewhere before the bad weather arrives. I even consider the option of turning north and heading for the south coast of Ireland.

I make a cup of tea and have a biscuit (only a few digestives left now) while I mull it over and decide that giving up the hard earned sea miles is just too depressing to do. 

Whilst getting the milk out the fridge I notice a rather muddy looking puddle swirling around at the bottom. It needs a dam good clean when we eventually stop. Indeed the whole galley area is looking rather sorry for itself. It's not just grubby - which it is - but a piece of plastic trim has come unstuck leaving an ugly scar and water has clearly penetrated under the formica type work surface because it's beginning to bubble.

Up top the sprayhood fabric is on its last legs. I've been stitching and taping it together on and off for the last 12 months. The last patches of gaffer tape re-enforcements are wearing off/coming away in swathes and within days of stitching another seam, I discover a new one that needs doing.

The old Raymarine Chartplotter under the Sprayhood is beginning to feel the effects of the various sprayhood leaks and the gps connection at the back is becoming unreliable. I had a similar problem with its  Radar connection a few weeks ago but that seems OK now.

I get in the cockpit and pump 70 strokes before it pumps air. That's a bit odd/concerning, given that George said he pumped a 100 at midnight and wasn't sure if it emptied.

For most of my Watch I doze for 30 minute chunks and I actually sleep during all of them

It's 0600 we have a light wind on the beam, enough to make 5 knots with the cruising chute so I hoist it. The operation goes remarkably smoothly. We're pulling 5+ knots, excellent. I go below to make a cup of tea to celebrate. The boat leans over and then some more, I look out of the window and see the foot of the chute dipping in and out of the water and foam everywhere. The wind has unexpectedly increased, it's only supposed to be 11 knots. We're creaming along at 7+ knots and the man who loves a cruising chute is fast asleep below! We carry on like this for about half an hour then the wind gradually eases and backs so that we can no longer lay our course. The wind is still stronger than I would normally fly the chute in and so I reluctantly wake up George to help.

In the event we get it down without too much hassle. It was only up for an hour and a half - not really worth the effort but it was exhilarating sailing for an hour or so!

The wind continues to die away so the engine goes on at 0725 and we motor-sail until 1030 when there's enough wind to sail again - just. To give us a little more   'uhmpf' I rig the spare jib on the emergency forestay and Bonny becomes a cutter (a single masted boat with two headsails).

We make good progress throughout the day but the wind is due to back and head us so the big question is, will we/won't we weather the IoS? 

The bilge continues to fill with water rather too quickly for comfort. After much poking around and head scratching I continue to suspect a leak in the inaccessible bilge pump hose. Because we're storming along close hauled on the port tack, the water is all in the turn of the bilge and the other bilge pump can only suck air. So I get my last bit of hose out, stick it on the outlet of the galley bilge pump and we pump out via 18 buckets that have to be handed up from the galley to the cockpit while Bonny storms along at 6-7 knots completely unconcerned about the plight of her crew! George has a splitting headache, but mans the pump while I do the chuck-it.

Despite his headache George has the presence of mind to point out what should have been the blindingly obvious to me; if the bilge pump hose is the source of our leak then the water may be coming in as fast as we're pumping it out (the outlet is on the port side).

Fortunately the outlet is above the waterline and so even though it's spending a fair amount of time under water I'm able to lean over the side and hammer a bung into it.

Much to our surprise and contrary to the forecast the wind increases to almost gale force in the evening and with all sail set including the extra jib we are over canvassed and need to reduce sail. It's a very, very wet fore deck and I get soaked through to the skin despite Mick's oilskins which are only marginally less porous than mine. I hand the jib and then realise I should have left it and simply put more furls in the genoa, Next I put two reefs in the mainsail and a couple of turns in the genoa. We still make 5-6 knots and continue on course for the south west corner of the traffic separation scheme to the west of Scilly which we can just lay whilst hard on the wind.

Somehow George manages to rustle up a Dinner of hot dogs and onions in Nann bread. Very welcome!

We study the latest weather info and decide we're not going to get past Scilly and round the Lizard before we get another pasting and this time it will be on the nose. We decide to divert to Hugh Town, St Mary's in the IoS. We should get there by around 0500 tomorrow.

No sleep for either of us tonight.

2300 and we are the south west corner of the TSS. Almost to the second the wind backs 20° or so and we can no longer hold a course to stay south of the TSS and so the engine gets pressed into service and we motor sail across just clipping the southern boundary. I get on the vhf to speak with a ship coming down the south bound lane to make sure she's aware of us. Her radio operator confirms they will keep clear which is good of them. 

Once across we free off and sail once again, to pick up the North West Passage (no, not that one) into St Mary's. At the waypoint marking our turn in, we have to head directly into the wind and motor once again and something of a nightmare begins. It's a near gale and the waves are big and messy and I find it impossible to steer a course. I've never attempted to motor in such conditions before and it doesn't twig that the engine needs far higher revs to cope with the conditions. Eventually George says "we're not moving" - he's right we're not. That's why I can't hold a course - no steerage way. I increase the revs from 2,500 to 3,500 and at last we start making headway and I can steer a course. The next couple of hours are the worst of the passage to date. There's not much worse than motoring flat out into a strong wind and big seas and only crawling along.

6/9/25

Finally around 0200, after crawling along at 2-3 knots into the heavy weather for what seems like hours, we reach the next waypoint for the final run into Hugh Town. Once again we can free off and life becomes more comfortable.

It's pitch black and there are rocks either side of the approach channel into the harbour which is crowded with moorings and quite a few boats. Fortunately, George knows the place well and is able to provide the extra info re what's what, that makes the tricky approach manageable. 

We pick up a mooring at 0300.

Passage over. We've crossed about 1400 miles of the North Atlantic in just over 12 days and most probably travelled around 1800 miles in doing so.

Bed and sleep calls

Postscript

Later after a very self indulgent pancake breakfast we tidy up the boat and think about getting ashore. George examines the outboard motor which has a fuel leak. Servicing it was one of the jobs I didn't get round to when I broke my foot. He discovers the float chamber has rusted through and has a hole in it. 

It's really too windy to row ashore and so I ring the harbour master to enquire about a water taxi. Yes they run one but due to being short staffed the last one back will leave at 1630; it's already 1500. We decide against going ashore but will watch some Rugby instead.

Before that starts I discover by complete accident that the bilge is full - almost overflowing again. I had tried the bilge pump earlier but it only sucked air. Clearly I didn't try for long enough. I go back to the pump and spend the best part of an hour pumping the water out.

So, it's not the bilge pump hose after all, or at least it's not only the bilge pump hose. I open up the engine box and stick my head down and shine a torch around. I don't see anything untoward, but then I hear the sound of running water. I look some more and finally see a stream of water coming in through the stern gland! Well, now at least I know where some if not all of the water is coming in from. 

I'm surprised because I have been turning the screw on the greasing reservoir fairly frequently which should have kept the gland reasonably water tight. Anyway, I now screw it right down and push out all the grease (hopefully into the gland). That seems to stop the flow, but the likelihood is that the packing needs replacing. The gearbox is left in neutral when sailing so the prop shaft has been turning for quite a few thousand miles over the course of the last couple of years!

I refill the reservoir and remind myself to check the bilge more frequently.

Tomorrow morning we'll head for Falmouth and hopefully meet up with the crew of Brown Bear who left Greenland just after us and are on their way round the Lizard. It must be pretty uncomfortable. Hopefully, also I'll be able to meet up with sailing friends Steff and Peter whom I first met when I bought Bonny in Albufiera in 2020.

Princ Christian Sund to ? - Day 12 - 4/9/25

Sunset by George.

I've been awake mostly since midnight listening to the rising sound of the wind and the boat rushing through the water at increasing speed and to the rising frequency of the pistil shot noises from the genoa as it backs and resets on the pole. Speed is of the essence if we're to avoid nasty headwinds in a couple of days and then a nasty gale we need to press on, but there's no point in breaking something, so at 0100 I get up and advise George that we need to reef.

It really is pretty blowy, although the sea is still reasonably flat which has made for good sailing. Reefing takes quite a while because a batten gets caught behind the upper starboard shroud. Eventually we get two reefs in and the genoa smaller by about 60%.

Shortly after reefing I realise we also need to gybe because the wind has backed over the last few hours forcing us to head 5-10° north of east whereas we want to steer about 115-120° for the Isles of Scilly. 

I make a bit of a pigs ear of the gybe and don't control the boom properly which goes slamming across the cockpit (I don't put the preventer on a winch and the force of the wind in the sail as it backs is too much for me to control). 

After being unceremoniously ejected from his bunk by the force of the gybe, George notices the skipper is not quite as calm and collected as one would prefer a skipper to be and so he comes up to the cockpit in his underwear (and gets a good soaking) to help quell the chaos and complete the gybe. This requires furling in the genoa so that its small enough to avoid getting snagged on the emergency forestay when its hauled across; hauling it across to the other pole, unfurling it an appropriate amount and making it secure. We notice the genoa gets jammed at about 1/3 size which is OK (the size that is not the jam) so we leave it for now.  Unfortunately, George hurts his back in the process and has to retire to bed, hurt, dosed up with painkillers!

At around 2100 we go on high alert when we see navigation lights ahead.  There's nothing on the AIS nor anything obvious on the Radar and we curse the bloody boat out here without AIS. We suspect another yacht because I glimpse a green (starboard) light in addition to the white light we both saw. There is no very bright white light which one would expect if it was a fishing boat. It's all a bit nerve wracking because of the difficulty of judging how close it really is. Given we could barely see a large fishing boat a mile away yesterday, this boat might only be a half mile ahead of us. We'd be surprised if it was a smallish yacht without AIS out here in these conditions. These days most yachts crossing oceans have AIS transponders. It's possible this one might be an Irish boat just out for a sail in the Atlantic, but even the Irish aren't usually quite so gung-ho as to seek out trouble just for the hell of it. We remain puzzled and keep our eyes peeled, but the lights gradually disappear into the night ahead of us.

At 0400 it's light enough for me to discover the cause of the jammed genoa. The storm jib halyard has wrapped itself around the top part of the furled sail. 

At 0420 I empty the bilge with 110 strokes of the pump.

At 0500 I tackle the halyard wrap. Fortunately, after furling the genoa a bit more the halyard unwraps itself and I am able to unfurl the sail fully. 

0616 The bilge requires just 18 strokes of the pump to empty.

At 0741 a message comes in from fellow OCC member, Hugh Clay on Brown Bear. They were in Nanortalik very briefly when we were there but the other side of the harbour when we were up to our elbows (George was in reality up to his armpit) with the engine and so we never actually met. The message was....

"It looks like we passed pretty close to Bonny on Saturday night, but our AIS has stopped working"

So that explains our earlier close encounter. We swap messages and discover Brown Bear is heading for Falmouth, so we may meet up after all which would be fun. 

The sailing is very uncomfortable. We have the wind on the quarter and a significant swell overlaid with short steep seas. This makes for some very unpleasant jerky rolling, a little reminiscent of the worst I have ever experienced and that was on Arctic Smoke in December 2016 as Mick and I were in the last third of our crossing from Cape Verde to Martinique and experiencing the Caribbean's 'Christmas Winds'. On one occasion then, I was standing in the galley on the port side of the boat and had just finished making a cup of coffee which was grasped firmly in my hands to avoid spillage when the boat gave the most violent lurch to port - she must have fallen off a wave - the space I occupied was suddenly on the opposite side of the boat and I was sitting on the chart table and my coffee was all over the ceiling! It wasn't as bad as that but two pots of coffee did empty themselves all over the galley micro seconds before I was due to poor the liquid into my mug! I'm afraid I probably shocked George with my stream of vulgarities that spewed out of my mouth!

The sun is out and therefore even though the boat is still rolling like crazy, we feel obliged to grab a noon site to make sure we know where we are 😂. We work out the time of local noon and I take the sight as best I can - which is little better than a wild guess with all the wild rolling going on.

We then go below  and work out our Latitude. Clearly some malign force is at work because it turns out that we 'are' 8° or 480 miles further north than our modern technology thinks we are. Thank goodness we took the sight otherwise we would be completely lost!

Things get even worse when we take and calculate our PM Sight. The resulting position line is clearly so far off that we'd need a plotting sheet the size of a football field to plot it. It would intercept our latitude hundreds of miles from our estimated position, probably somewhere in the high Arctic! We'll try again tomorrow!

It's late afternoon and the wind has eased so we shake out the reefs from the mainsail. The sea is still very lumpy and uncomfortable - the motion is actually worse because there's not enough pressure on the sails to dampen the rolling.

By 1910 the wind is so light we have to turn the engine on to maintain a speed of around 5 knots.

I'm pumping around 70-100 strokes every six hours to clear the bilges.

Between 1900 and 2100 we pass through another fishing fleet. George is on lookout while I'm cooking the supper, and has to alter course significantly to avoid one of the boats.

Supper is pasta Carbonara. It's ok but not my best.

I go to bed at 2200 and go out like a light despite the noise of the engine.

Our midnight to midnight run is 129 miles and Lands End is 162 miles off and so we are also 129 miles closer than 24 hours ago! Not bad. 🤞

Princ Christian Sund to ? - Day 11 - 3/9/25

We didn't see the Northern Lights but we did catch a Rainbow!

Would you believe it? After days of gales our challenge far from more gales as we suspected, is now not enough wind, until that is the next gale😂.

It's 0800 and I've just finished re-working our predicted progress given the lighter winds we've had and those forecast ahead of us and the result is not a good one. We will of course go slower which is to be expected and not such a calamity on its own,  but not only will we go slower, we would get caught by headwinds in the Western Approaches which would slow our progress further, which would mean, yes you guessed it, we'd get clobbered by another gale puffing in from the west! 

To avoid that we need to be in a port by Saturday evening. The candidates, are, Penzance, Falmouth or Plymouth. Which one, depends on how much progress we make. Plymouth would be best for both of us. It's close to home for George and is the nearest to the Medway for me and therefore improves my chances of getting home for my 38th wedding anniversary on the 12th.

So we turn the engine on again at 0900 in order to maintain a speed of around 5 knots.

By 1530 the wind has increased sufficiently for us to sail at 5 knots and so the engine goes off again. By now we've motored for a total of about 48 hours since topping the tank up in Aappilattoq. 72 hours is roughly equivalent to the maximum capacity of the tank and we suspect we will need to motor for perhaps another 24 hours in a couple of days if we're to avoid that gale. Given the recent blocked fuel pipe we don't want to run the tank low especially as it's been churned around a lot in the rough weather and so we are going to have to top the tank up from the jerry cans whilst at sea which may be a precarious operation!

Around the time we turn off the engine we detect a fishing fleet of 4 boats about 12 miles in front of us. We go through them without having to change course finally spot one on the horizon only a mile and a half away. It's bloody difficult to see things out here even in good visibility like we have today.

In the afternoon the sun almost comes out - it can be seen through the clouds - time for our next round of Astro Nav practice. After an initial struggle we both manage to pull the sun down to the horizon and get fairly similar angles - 35° 5' I think it was.

Afterwards I try to revise the method for working out the time of local noon, because as I think I may already have mentioned, a sun sight at local noon will, with some calculations, give the navigator his latitude. With the help of special tables and plotting sheets (or trigonometry if you're clever) it's relatively straightforward. 

The time of noon at Greenwich (when the sun crosses the Greenwich Meridian) is shown in the tables for every day of the year. Then you need to estimate your Longitude - how far east or west you are of the Greenwich Meridian. Because 15° of Longtitude = 1 hour, 4 minutes of time = 1° Longtitude (there are 60 mins of Longitude in 1°, thus 60/15 = 4) and therefore 1 minute of time = 1/4 of 1° of Longtitude = 15 mins of Longitude. You're unlikely to be travelling directly east or west and so to work that out, you use a plotting sheet to plot your estimated position relative to lines of latitude and longitude that you draw on the sheet. The sheet includes a compass rose and a scale that enables you to plot your last known position and your estimated position by plotting the distance and the angle (your course) at which you have travelled. That gives you your estimated Longitude. You compare that with 0° at Greenwich and you then know how many hours or minutes east or west you are from the Greenwich Meridian. So, if you are 1 hour to the west, local noon will be 1 hour later than at Greenwich!

Dolphins join us for a while after our practice with the sextant, perhaps as a reward. 

Then at 1600 we discover the bilge full of water! There's water sloshing over the cabin sole. Once we notice that we both recall that we've heard a sloshing noise but failed to put 2 and 2 together! We've sprung a leak! Both hands to both bilge pumps and we empty it in about half an hour. 

I've been pumping the bilge once a day - roughly a hundred strokes - I assume in rough weather it gets in through the anchor locker and some through the stern gland. A little will also get in via the cockpit lockers. For the bilge to be full within 24 hours something else is going on. The question of course is where's it coming from?

On a plastic boat, unless the hull's cracked, the only places other than those just mentioned are the various skin fittings or their pipes and connections. We check the skin fittings in the Loo, and the Galley, including the engine water inlet. They're not leaking. The only others are underneath the cockpit floor and in the stern locker and are for the cockpit drains and the cockpit bilge pump and electric bilge pump and also the above waterline one for the internal bulge pump.

On checking the engine inlet we do notice a modest flow of water running down the inside of the hull from behind the fridge box. This is also the location of the above waterline skin fitting for the internal bilge pump.

I fitted it a couple of years ago and used cheap plastic hose, the same stuff I used to run from the pump into the bilge. This section has split a couple of times and we replaced it in St John's. It's possible that the section from the pump to the skin fitting (which is inaccessible without dismantling the fridge) has also split. If so some of the water being pumped out would simply run back into the bilge and when the skin fitting goes under water - which it does frequently in the sort of conditions we have been experiencing - water would enter the boat. Currently that's my best guess as to what's happening. It's entirely manageable through frequent pumping and so there's no danger of us sinking!

Dinner is the left over chilli with Naan bread and then as a special treat I heat some some blueberry breakfast bars in the oven and make custard to cover them with. It works surprisingly well!

George lets me go to bed early!

Sleep however is difficult to come by because of the rising wind and an increasingly bumpy ride.

Our midnight to midnight straight line run is 127 nautical miles. The distance to Lands End is 291 which means we are 125 miles closer than we were the previous midnight.

It's a beautiful starry night - the first of the passage.

Will we get in somewhere by Saturday night, 3 days from now? Remember we have to go past Lands End and so will have at least another 20 miles before our nearest port of Penzance, 43 to Falmouth and 80 miles to Plymouth.

Princ Christian Sund to ? - Day 10 - 2/9/25

The wind dies further over night.  I get up for my first hourly check at 0200 and we're down to about 3.5 knots. 

At 0600 my alarm goes off and I wake to a banging noise from the cockpit. It's the main sheet car bashing from side to side on its track. But why? The mainsheet is loose. But why? I look up at the mainsail - it's a funny shape. Has the halyard come off? No. 

I look at the boom, it's much lower than it should be - hence the slack mainsheet - but why? The clue of the sail (the lower back corner) is no longer near the end of the boom - it's a couple of feet further forward and higher up. The clue line (the bit of string that pulls the clue out to the end of the boom) must have worked loose. I go up to the mast base. 

Funny it's still secure in the winch but there's clearly slack in the line. I winch the slack in and go back to the cockpit. The boom is now at the right angle but the clue is still not in the right place near the end of the boom. 

Finally the penny drops. Either the block or the shackle holding the block (pulley) that the clue line runs through has broken and the block or its remains has slid forward until it's jammed on something else. I can't quite make out which due the sail cover being in the way and it's pissing with rain so I leave it for now and will have to investigate later when its dry

I then record our engine hours and compare that with those recorded when we topped up with 40 litres of fuel at Aapilattoq. The result is 68 hours - almost 3 days which I had previously worked out was the maximum a tank would last for (there is no working gauge). I was rather surprised but left it at that except to conclude we would need to top up the tank with the 60 litres (about 30 hours) of fuel we had in the  jerry cans before running the engine again.

When George wakes at about 0800 I update him on the fuel situation. He too is surprised but sensibly digs back through our records and discovers we must have made a recording error. It turns out I had misread a 9 on the counter for a 4. We had only run the engine for 24 hours since filling the tank not 68. We have plenty of fuel for the 12 or so hours of motoring we anticipate doing today before the wind returns this evening.

So I turn the engine on and we motor directly for the western approaches at 2000 revs making more than 5 

knots - we must have some favourable current. 

I then tidy up the sails and lines for motoring mode while George starts breakfast - pancakes with bacon and also with tinned fruit and yogurt - yummy, I'm really looking forward to that.

Once I finish furling the genoa and setting the mainsail amidships to help reduce the rolling I investigate the clue line issue. It turns out that the shackle holding the block onto the boom either undid itself or broke. Before I have time to fix it George announces breakfast in 5 minutes, so I defer the job until after breakfast.

What a feast. George found packets of pancake mix in Walmart in St John's and bought a couple. Today's breakfast - our third pancake breakfast finished the first packet and gave us 3.5 pancakes each. 

Have you ever listened to the Radio 4 programme - "Sliced Bread" during which the presenter evaluates apparent wonder products which have been promoted as "the best thing since sliced bread"?

Well, I think I'm going to nominate Walmart's Pancake mix for the accolade. By the simple act of adding water to the powder and mixing it up and then frying the mixture as one would a regular home made pancake, one gets delicious thick pancakes USA style. For hungry boaters wanting a quick filling breakfast they just can't be beaten, especially when served with a choice of fried bacon or tinned peaches and yogurt. 

I am in gastro heaven.  Two bacon and maple syrup pancakes disappear down my throat in quick succession followed by a modest pause, before one and a half tinned peaches and yogurt AND maple syrup pancakes follow.

It's definitely the best thing since sliced bread, indeed is far superior to it.

I've always regarded this classic American breakfast (OK perhaps they don't use tinned peaches) as a severe over indulgence and have only previously succumbed to it only a very few times and most of those on visits to the USA. I now fear a further addiction may be on the horizon and I may also have developed a new found sympathy for the plight of our American cousins!

We motor onwards for the rest of the day with a very variable wind doing not very much. With the engine running our batteries are at 100% by 1200 and so I run the water maker and the water heater. 

The sea continues to flatten significantly.

AND THEN ... something very strange takes place. I make us an afternoon tea of toast and peanut butter/jam and a cup of tea/coffee. OK that's not strange but what occurs as part of the ritual is. I put two cups down on the galley work top, a tea bag in one and instant coffee in the other and pour in the water and subsequently the milk, ..... 

..." when all of a sudden....

...nothing happens"... 

[if you recognise the quote you're probably as old as me or older]

Both cups stay exactly where I put them, neither shows the slightest tendency to relocate itself to some other part of the cabin ; the tea stays in its cup as does the coffee, not a drop spills out. 

I leave them there for a few minutes while I make the toast but keep them under observation from the corner of my eye, because I know full well that this is just a test and that as soon as my back is turned they'll be up to their old tricks of slipping and sliding and spilling even if they don't have the energy for jumping. But no. They are still in exactly the same place by the time I have finished making the toast a few minutes later. Believe me, that is a VERY strange occurrence!

AND THEN.... something just as unusual - I have my first proper wash and don my first pair of clean undies since leaving Greenland (I have to boil a kettle because the 12v  water heater takes ages to heat up). Thankfully I don't discover any nasty consequences from neglecting my personal hygiene for so long!

AND THEN... George decides it's calm enough to practice with the Sextant. He and I both attended an astro navigation course last winter run by our very good friend Bernie, who like George a venerable Jester, indeed Bernie is at present 'at the helm' of the Jester Challenge. [The Jester Challenge is an organisation for eccentric sailors in small boats who get together once a year to sail single handed from Plymouth to (depending on where the year falls in the cycle), Baltimore (Ireland), The Azores, or Rhode Island USA.] 

Even more significantly with regards to the Sextant, Bernie is an ex merchant mariner who trained as a deck officer in the days when the merchant ships of the world navigated their way across oceans with the sextant as their primary navigational instrument. So Bernie knows what he's talking about.

Bernie is actually the second ex Merchant Mariner to teach me celestial navigation. After I bought my sextant I did an RYA course run by a charming ex Captain. I even passed the exam at the end of it. The sextant went back in the box after a couple of classroom sessions and stayed there. I promptly forgot everything I had learned!

We have both been harbouring feelings of extreme guilt that so far neither of us has attempted to get the sextant out of its box, let alone use it, or, god forbid, undertake the (for innumerate novices like me) the complex calculations required to work out one's position, but now we do - attempt to get it out of the box that is!!

We missed golden opportunities during our first days out of St John's when we had gorgeous warm sunny weather. I did think about it but was just too dam idle to do anything about it and now here we are after 10 days with barely a glimpse of the sun, and a constantly heaving boat, driven by guilt to practice on clouds!

I've got two sextants on board, a posh brass one in a posh wooden box that I bought at the London Boat Show about 20 years ago and which is in perfect condition due to ...... complete lack of use and a good quality plastic one that came with the boat. I get the plastic one out.

There was no actual sun on offer and anyway we weren't prepared to take a proper sight but the afternoon was reasonably bright and for the first time it wasn't an unpleasant experience to be outside, nor was the boat rocking and rolling all over the place, so we could at least practice the technique of measuring the angle of an object to the horizon. Today it would be a cloud which of course is no use at all for a proper sight but the technique required is the same. The sextant's clever array of mirrors and its moveable arm, enables one with practice to bring the object; the sun or another star, or the moon, down to the horizon and then read off the angle. The navigator notes the time to the second and then through the use of tables of angles  and a series of calculations can work out a position line - actually a great circle (one that has the centre of the earth at its centre) that goes round the earth. He/She then knows he/she is somewhere on that great circle!

What use is that you may ask? Well on its own not much admittedly. But by working through a number of steps one can improve on that. Firstly, the classic noon sight is used to establish ones latitude. Now that of course is not a great circle but it is nevertheless a really useful thing to know because if you know that and then you get or have already got, a position line hey presto, you know where you are, where the two lines meet. Simple eh! Well not really but never mind.

Anyway I can report that our two intrepid navigators both managed to bring a cloud down to the horizon. Next we need the sun and to remember how to work out when local noon is!

Watch this space. From now on each post will include a progress report!

George cooks another Chilli served with Naan Breads (I kept referring to them as Pittas before) - delicious once again. 

We turn the engine off at about 2100 and 12 hours of motoring and continue sailing at about 3.5 knots almost in the right direction.

Our midnight to midnight run is 104 nautical miles. Our distance to Lands End is 416 which means we are 101 miles closer than we were last midnight. Just as well we motored for 12 hours!

Princ Christian Sund to ? - Day 9 - 1/9/25

Grabbing a mid morning knap!

Ironically, I sleep better during my on-Watch hours than I did whilst off-Watch. I did my hourly checks and set my alarm for 0600 when George is due to start his Watch, so that we can gybe the boat onto the starboard tack and head further south. 

First I have to rig the starboard pole which I accomplish without too much trouble. The sea state has improved since last night but it's still pretty rolly. As I have frequently done in the past when sailing with a crew mate, I wonder how I manage to get these tasks done when on my own and yet I do. It's certainly so much easier with two - one up in the foredeck the other controlling the various lines from the cockpit and I haven't experienced such bad weather for so long on my own.

Take this job of rigging the pole for example. On this occasion I'm starting from scratch - it's lashed down on deck (but the guys are already run out and are clipped on to the rail at the bow).

Firstly, I attach the fore-guy and the stern-guy to the outward end of the pole and run the genoa sheet through the end.

If I'm alone I need to ensure I free off the guys at the cockpit end or face the frustrating trip back to the cockpit when I realise there's not enough slack in the lines. When someone else is aboard they can do that, which George does now. Once the pole is attached to the mast and lifted to the horizontal, the guys are used to control the angle of the pole to the boat - roughly 90°. The fore guy pulls the outer end forwards, the stern guy pulls it aft.

Secondly, I attach the pole halyard to the outboard end of the pole.

Releasing the pole halyard from the base of the mast.

Thirdly, I unlash the pole from the deck. Doing so after I attach the guys and the halyard, means I have a chance of recovering the pole if it slips over the side. A lesson I learned the hard way when I lost Arctic Smoke's pole over the side en-route to the Cape Verde in 2016.

Unlashing the pole from the deck

Fourthly - (and this is where I am at my most vulnerable and must make sure I am securely fastened to the boat which I do by looping my safety harness around the mast) I insert the heel of the pole into its holster on the mast. To do this I have to stand up for the first time. I lift the heel upwards and push the pole forwards to get the heel over the mast fitting and then pull the pole back onto it until it locks. This can be a bit tricky when the boat is rocking and rolling in a heavy sea.

Fifthly, I haul the outer end of the pole up with the halyard until the pole is about horizontal. This is where two people makes things so much easier. George controls the pole with the guys as I lift it and secures the guys, one pulling the pole backwards the other forwards so that it sits at right angles to the boat. If I'm on my own, the pole will swing (wildly if its rough) until I can make off the halyard and grab the guys to control the pole. Then I would have to get back to the cockpit as quickly as possible to make off the guys properly.

Finally, George (in this case) releases the furling line and hauls on the sheet to pull the clue of the genoa out to the end of the pole (unless that is we decide to reduce the size of the genoa).

Afterwards George goes back to bed to try and catch up on his lost sleep. I write up the blog until I too start falling asleep (about 0900).

I wake about 1030 feeling peckish and rather fancy a bacon and egg sandwich in Pitta Bread. Eventually George stirs a bit later and I establish he likes the idea too, so I get up and make the sandwiches. They are very well received.

Today gradually turns into the quietest day of the passage. The wind eases, so much so that by mid morning we dispense with the final reef in the mainsail. The seas diminish too albeit more slowly than the wind and we sail more gently at around 5 knots.

I cook supper, which, just for a change comprises sausages, fried onions and fried cabbage in .... yes that's right .... more pitta bread - well we had to (almost) finish the now opened pack of pitta bread didn't we.

The wind eases further so that by the time I go to bed an hour early at 2100 our speed is down to 4 knots.

Our midnight to midnight run in a straight line is 114 nautical miles. Our distance from Lands End is 517 miles which means we're a 112 miles closer than the previous midnight!

Princ Christian Sund to ? - Day 8 - 31/8/25

The last day of August! We'd better get a move on otherwise the Autumnal storm season will be upon us and it will start getting cold and we'll lose the sun!

We wake up properly around 0830. We've drifted about 17 miles eastwards over night which is quite convenient. George reviews the latest weather forecast on the tablet from his bunk. We've drifted about 17 miles eastwards over night which is quite convenient. It still sounds pretty blowy out there but there's unlikely to be any change over the next 24 hours so we decide to get going again. Under triple reefed main and storm jib with the wind on the quarter, we're back to making 6 knots or so on a course of roughly East, South East, more or less in the right direction. 

In 24 hours or so it looks as if we will have to try and dodge both calm patches and stronger winds! But for now it's a case of carry on as we are.

With the repeated dowsings my gifted oilskins have  endured on the foredeck during the course of the passage, they have given up any pretence of being waterproof and now act more like sheets of heavy duty blotting paper. Worse still my sea boots have also given up the unequal struggle and my feet squelch in their own individual bogs. 

The oilskins hold a sentimental place on board having previously belonged to my dear deceased friend, Richard, struck down by throat cancer in 2017, and kindly gifted to me by his wife and also dear friend, Rayelle. However, they're no longer of any practical use and so I consign them temporarily to the bottom of the wet locker along with a pair of now saturated jeans. My boots I jam behind the toilet. I hope that one day they will eventually dry out!

Fortunately, Mick left his foul weather oilskins on board when he left the boat in St Martin in 2024 and I have therefore taken possession of them. At present at least, they are a lot more effective. I also dig out an old pair of common or garden wellington boots and use those. They've not warm, but at least they don't leak!

George makes banana custard for breakfast.

Yummy!

Toast and marmalade/Jam/Peanut Butter for Elevens' and Afternoon Tea!

Finish off George's Chilli Con carne for supper.

There wasn't much else to do once I had finished the excellent "River Thieves", other than worry about the weather, which I started doing a lot of after supper, whilst George was havining his pre-Watch nap.

The three low pressure systems along with their attendant areas of light winds are ganging up on us to create a complex and ever shifting obstacle course as we close the SW Ireland and the Western Approaches. To complicate matters further, there are some significant differences in the three forecast models we use; ECMWF,  UKHMO, and GFS. The latter predicts an area of light winds will initially pass us to the south tomorrow and then the day after (Tuesday) turn north east and cut across our direct route to the Isles of Scilly. If we rely on that we should head south now to get underneath it. The other two models show it continuing eastwards below us and dissipates. If we believe those we should stay on an eastwards course to avoid it. 

Whichever course we take we then face the prospect of further strong winds, quite possibly gales in the western approaches. If we guess right about the best way of getting there and the ECMWF model is accurate we'll face intervals of moderately strong winds gusting to gale force and lighter winds over the next few days and in the western approaches. If UKMO is right the winds will be full blown gales for periods. If GFS is right we face the prospect of a strong gale crossing our track as we cross the approach to the Celtic Sea (between SW Ireland and Lands End. UKHMO also shows a very strong gale following on from the North West, which would quite possibly catch us on its southern flank (provided we get far enough south, or if we don't, it might catch us full on).

That's the one we thought we might have to dodge by putting into SW Ireland but it now looks increasingly unlikely that we would get there in time and if we did aim for SW Ireland and didn't make it before the gale we would get clobbered in the middle of its strongest winds!

We review all this together when George gets up for his Watch at 2200 and  agree that the least worst course of action now is to head as directly as possible towards the western approaches. If we get overtaken by calms we'll use the engine.

It's dark of course and we're on the port tack heading east with the NW wind on the quarter and the genoa poled out to port. We can only safely turn further away from the wind on this tack by about 15° (or risk an accidental gybe). We do that but are still not heading sufficiently far south. We need to gybe to make our desired course, but it's still very blowy and the seas are the biggest they've been; 5-6 metres we guess.  I don't fancy rigging the pole on the foredeck with the boat rolling around in these conditions and in the dark. We agree to leave it at that until the morning, by when the conditions should have moderated and daylight has returned.

We go below and hit our beds. We operate a modified Watch. The man on-Watch can be in bed but should check everything every hour. I'm off Watch first but find it almost impossible to sleep because the storm jib sheet is making such an unholy din as it flaps in the wind shadow of the mainsail. I was too lazy to take it down earlier!

We swap over at 0200. I fix the racket by hardening up on the storm jib sheet, but as I later discover, poor George doesn't get any sleep.

We run 101 miles in a straight line, midnight to midnight including 8 hours hove to. Lands End is 629 miles off which means we are 100 miles closer than 24 hours ago.

Princ Christian Sund to ? - Day 7 - 30/8/25

I continue to sleep on and off but during the early hours of the morning I become much more aware of the noise of the wind. It must have increased further. I'm even more relieved we're not sailing and just hope the forecast is not wildly out and we're going to get significantly worse conditions which necessitate deployment of the drogue and so lie stern to the weather to minimise the risk of a knock down by a rogue wave.

We both continue to sleep on and off until about 0930 when I get up and make tea and toast for breakfast. We discuss the situation and agree that despite little if any improvement in the conditions, we'll get underway again and see how we fare. I decide it would be better to use the storm jib rather than the genoa because I'm anxious about the genoa's furling mechanism jamming once again in the strong winds. Being unable to furl that in these conditions would be pretty bloody awful.

So I go up to the foredeck and hoist the storm jib. I have to do that three times in order to find the best run for the sheets and avoid them chaffing on the standing rigging. We end up with both sheets on the leeward side on slightly different runs so that we have the option of using either subject to how hard we want to sheet the sail in. This time I do get a wave break over me and I get a good soaking. My oilskins are clearly too worn out to keep me dry and so too, disappointingly are my little used sea boats!

It takes us nearly an hour in all but eventually we are both satisfied with how the boat is behaving, her speed - around 6 knots and her course, almost due east, and we go below. The weather has brightened up a bit which cheers us up too.

I manage to cook a bacon and egg brunch at noon which goes down well.

The conditions remain broadly the same for the rest of the day, with relative brightness alternating with relative gloom and the batteries reach 70% capacity for the first time since leaving Greenland.

Bonny continues to average around 6.5 knots. Since heaving to for the first time on this passage the day before yesterday, we have sailed under a triple reefed mainsail and the storm jib and have left the genoa furled up completely. In these conditions it's a good combination. The deeply reefed mainsail doesn't blanket the storm jib as much as the genoa and so unlike the genoa we don't need to pole it out to the weather side when the wind is on the quarter. When it does back occasionally, the force of it resetting is nowhere near as violent as the genoa doing the same thing.

George cooks a most welcome chilli concarne for supper and then we heave-to for the night. We experiment once again with combinations of mainsail and storm jib before arriving at the same conclusion - the best set-up is just the triple reefed mainsail sheeted in tight with the ship's rudder hard over to the weather side and the wheel lashed accordingly. I feather the Hydrovane so that it helps hold the ship's head at the same angle to the wind - roughly 45°.

Once that's done we both go below and go to bed.

Our straight line run from our hove-to position at 2150 the previous night, to midnight was 98 miles. Our distance to Lands End is 731. Which means we are 93 miles closer than we were then, which, given we were hove-to for a total of 15 hours during the same period, is pretty good going.

Princ Christian Sund to ? - Day 6 - 29/8/25

When my alarm goes off at 0200, George is fast asleep on the starboard saloon berth and I see no point in waking him, so I get up to check our course etc. We're heading further north than desirable and will have to gybe again but I decide to wait until George is awake rather than wake him up with all the inevitable noise that will accompany the manoeuvre. I'm also just too lazy! Then I go back to bed having set my alarm to go off in another hour.

When I get up next, I realise I shouldn't delay putting the gybe in any longer and so get togged up to go outside. Whilst I'm doing that George wakes up. He stands by in case I need any help. In theory the operation can be managed from the cockpit. If all goes without a hitch, the 'worst' bit is having to stretch forward and retrieve the leeward genoa sheet from the rail where it has to be made up in order for there to be enough slack in it for the genoa to be sheeted out to the end of the windward pole. Why? Well it's because when measuring up for the new sheets in 2022, some daft hapeth neglected to account for the full distance the sheets needed to run from forestay via the ends of the poles back to the cockpit. No prizes for working out who that was, and you can be assured that he's extremely likely to make the same or similar mistake in the future!

As it turns out, on this occasion, not only is the uncomfortable stretch forward required, but the powers that be decide to invoke 'sods sailing law' which amongst many of its sub clauses includes one which says..."...for no discernable reason, nor due to any physical law yet discovered,  any sheet, no matter how carefully run, that in the normal course of events can readily be hauled from one side of the boat to the other without issue, will, at the most inconvenient moment, find an hitherto innocent and otherwise sensibly placed obstacle on which to foul itself..".

On this occasion the inconvenience in question is derived from my confidence that the manoeuvre will be a quick one and that I should be back in the relative comfort of the cabin within a few minutes.

No need for full togging up therefore, just my light jacket, shoes and life jacket for clipping on in the cockpit.Out I go. It's not particularly rough or windy  but rolly, damp and dark. I implement the manoeuvre I had just rehearsed in my head - change the angle of the wind vane so its pointing over the opposite quarter; take all but the last turn of the leeward preventer off its cleat; wait for the mainsail to start backing and then gently ease the preventer so that the boom swings across slowly to the other side; harden up on the preventer on the new leeward side; slacken off the genoa sheet and haul in on the furling line in stages so that the genoa is small enough to cross the boat without snagging on the temporary inner forestay; reach forward to retrieve the new windward genoa sheet from the rail; and haul it in to pull the genoa out onto the pole....and that's when sods sailor's law kicks in. 

The bloody thing won't move more than a few inches. The other sheet is slack so what's the problem? I look forward. There's the culprit. The sheet and the forward starboard mooring cleat have decided it's time to form an intimate relationship and the former has wrapped itself amorously around the latter. Blast. Now I need to go onto the foredeck. I have to clip on with three separate safety lines to get from the cockpit to the foredeck whilst remaining tethered to the boat at all times. It's wet of course. The wetness quickly penetrates through my light over-trousers to my knees and then my backside and my feet as I make the outward and then return outing to the foredeck, making sure I keep some tension in the sheet so as to avoid any further inappropriate behaviour.

I get back to the cockpit OK. George is standing in the companionway in case further help is necessary. I quickly get the sheet on the winch and pull the now quarter sized genoa out on the windward pole. Now I need to unfurl the genoa (I decide to about 2/3rds its full size). This is the part of the operation where I need to simultaneously ease the leeward sheet, ease the furling line but keep some tension on it to avoid the slack line tangling on anything, and winch in the windward sheet.  It's an operation we have both done on our own countless times before, but it's that much easier and less prone to getting bits of string all tangled up when there are two of you. George immediately spots the stage when I need three arms and takes over the job of easing the leeward sheet and making it up on the rail. The job gets done without more ado and we both retire below.

I'm very glad we have Starlink and that we are able to get connections relatively easily. Being able to get up to date weather and sea state information is proving to be a hugely useful tool for planning and implementing our sailing tactics amidst the surprisingly numerous weather systems that have impacted, or will impact us. It makes me feel quite uneasy when contemplating what we might have experienced without it.

Erin was of course the big name in the show's cast and it was thanks to access to (surprisingly) accurate and up to date weather information, that we were able to establish that the simple tactic of keeping the wind on our starboard quarter would keep us out of her clutches.

However, whilst Erin is the headline act, it turns out she has a surprising number of co-stars lining up to spice up the show.

Having earlier swept all asunder and taken the stage by storm, Erin's now (above) a mere shadow of her former self sulking and pouting to the west of Scotland at 0700 UTC on Friday 29th August.

The following is based on a weather grib file downloaded on Thursday afternoon.

At the bottom left (above) you can see Erin's younger sister beginning to strut her stuff on the Atlantic stage.

By 0400 UTC on Saturday she will have crossed us and be about 200 miles to the west of Ireland (above).

By Monday 2100 UTC yet another sister arrives on stage to the south west of southern Ireland and yet another is warming up south east of South Greenland (below)..

and by Tuesday midday will have travelled half way across the North Atlantic to team up with her older sister (below) ...

to provide us with rip roaring entertainment as we head for the western approaches!

The details of this choreography will have changed by the time this is posted but it gives you an idea of the level of activity on the North Atlantic stage we will have deal with before getting home.

Without the weather files we would have very little idea of what is coming. We do have the ship's barometer which shows the changes in air pressure that generate these systems, but that only gives us the broadest of pictures of what's going on out there. Working out from that and what one can observe by eye, where the strongest winds and biggest waves are likely to be, is a skill and an art that few of us modern day sailors posess. 

For hundreds of years however, the barometer and the naked eye were the only tools available to men and women sailing vessels large and small.  Before the barometer was invented, sailors had to make do with what they could directly observe. The Vikings sailed the treacherous seas of the far north Atlantic including the land of Ice Bergs and Mountains that we have just visited (we anchored at their first settlement in Greenland at Ikigaat) with only a magnetised needle and their eyes to rely on. They of course had no engine to get them out of trouble - just lots of oars! 

As recently as the 1960's, the likes of Bill Tillman (who only took up sailing when he could no longer climb the highest mountains) were sailing into the same waters in search of adventure, with the only addition to the magnetised needle, being a Sextant and a Barometer. Tillman's boats did have engines but they as often as not failed to function. One can only marvel at the skill, fortitude and bravery of Tillman and Co. You would think that for most people, surviving active service in the second world war, would have been enough excitement and that afterwards a quiet life in front of the fire with one's pipe, remembering fallen comrades would be a more attractive proposition!

Back to the present day North Atlantic. It's just gone 1500 on Friday afternoon and for yet another day we've had no sun. The batteries have been charging very slowly in the gloom and are still at only 40% capacity. We need an updated weather forecast and I need to run the watermaker to prevent the build up growth in the high pressure filter. Mind you I'm not sure if anything can grow in these temperatures. It's not quite as cold as it was but it's still pretty parky. All that means we need to run the engine to charge the batteries.

Thankfully it starts immediately without any hesitation. George's earlier heroics are still paying dividends!

We get online, get the latest weather forecast - not real change from previously - exchange messages with home and send the previous blog post.

Next I start cooking supper - pork again because that's the most unfrozen meat in the freezer which is now switched off due to lack of power which in turn is due to lack of sunlight! I'm about two thirds of the way through when I can no longer ignore the increasingly wild movement of the boat. The wind has increased suddenly and significantly and we are clearly over canvassed. 

It's about 2045 local time and time to heave-to! These are the strongest winds I have done this in and we have to experiment with a few different sail configurations before settling on the best.

I work the foredeck and George looks after the lines in the cockpit. It's pretty wild up here but I don't get any waves over me and I'm well clipped on. I have to unship and stow the port pole to start with because it's fouling the clue of the storm jib. 

Next I hoist the storm jib and we start off with the triple reefed mainsail and backed storm jib, but we can't get Bonny to lie as close to the wind as we think she should. Then we douse the jib and just lie-to under the main sheeted hard in. That improves things a little but we still seem to be making 3+ knots over the ground which is more than we expect/want. 

Then I look over the side and it doesn't look like we are going that fast through the water. We conclude we must be in a significant current. The wind is about 45°-60° off the bow which is about right. It's now 2150 ship's time (UTC-1) and we decide we have done everything that can be done and retire below. 

Supper now features soggy potatoes as a consequence.

After supper George bravely tackles the washing up and we both climb into our bunks for the night. There seems little point in maintaining a formal watch given we are drifting slowly in the middle of the North Atlantic and we have left the Icebergs behind.

I sleep on and off and feel a lot more at ease now there's no risk of Bonny broaching in the night (running too fast down a wave, digging her bow in and slewing broadside on the waves). It's much quieter below and I am only just conscious of the noise of the wind than I am when up top, where it seems pretty clear that a gale is blowing.

We overlook recording our midnight position but our heave-to point acts as a reasonable proxy and on that basis we have covered 104 miles in a straight line in the last 24 hours. There are now 824 miles to go to Lands End, which means we are 104 miles closer than 24 hours ago. Respectable in the circumstances

Princ Christian Sund to ? - Day 5 - 28/8/25

Oh dear, oh dear, what's to become of us? Not only did we run out of tonic a week or so back, but now we've broken the last remaining glass on the boat. So assuming conditions ever improve sufficiently, to make red wine or rum and coke an attractive proposition, we'll have to drink it out of plastic. We may also have run out of ice berg. We've had no sun except for 10 minutes a couple of days ago which means we're low on power and so it doesn't look like the freezer will go on today. That means our baby ice bergs, which, as Mick has pointed out, may be thousands of years old, may melt away to nothing if they have not done so already! A sad state of affairs indeed.

On a brighter note however, my soda bread is a great success. It's even contrived to look like the real thing. The inside as well as the outside is an authentic brown colour as if made with wholemeal flour which is pretty impressive given that it wasn't. It must have been that dollop of molasses that worked the deception.

George and I both doze during the morning. When his formal 2 hour early morning off-Watch period ends at 1030 I suggest he stays put. I've taken up residence on the Starboard saloon bunk which, now we were almost running, is a tenable option and despite its short length, courtesy of the cabin heater, I find more comfortable than the pilot berth, which George appears to be relatively comfortable in.

George gets up around 1130 and makes a welcome cup of tea and then I decide to investigate the soda bread which as reported earlier is a success. I also make breakfast. The boat is rolling so much that it's back to granola, fruit (I pick out the last few grapes that are mold free - it's remarkable how long they have lasted) yogurt and milk. 

George retires back to the pilot berth after breakfast still feeling queasy as a consequence of the constant rolling. 

I pump the bilges which I have been doing once a day since we left. It takes about a hundred strokes of the pump every day. I suspect most of the water is coming in via the anchor locker with some also getting in via the stern gland and the cockpit lockers. 

Then I continue my investigation of the disappeared UK charts on OpenCPN. Other regions are also no longer accessible, they too have, so the Application tells me, expired. But strangely the Carribbean charts are still available despite expiring on the same date last year! I'll investigate further once back on-line via Starlink. 

I hope it doesn't take long to connect Starlink today because we are low on power. There was a slight glimmer of brightness earlier and the charge rate went up to ten amps, but that didn't last long and we're now down to charging at just under two amps with the batteries at 47%. Thank goodness Mick persuaded me to invest in Lithium batteries and related kit and fitted it and also that we installed the two extra solar panels in Grenada last year.

It took about 20 minutes to connect Starlink despite the rolling. With one exception, when I had to restart it after an hour of trying, the maximum time it has taken on this trip is about 30 mins. That's a lot better than the sometimes 2 hours it took when Mick and I crossed to the Carribbean in 2023/24. The rolling on those occasions was even worse than on this passage (although George may take some convincing of that) and it was before Starlink updated their software to allow the dish to sit on an horizontal plane. At that time Mick came up with an ingenuous gimbal mechanism made with bits of string and bungee cord in which we were able to suspend the dish. I think the severe rolling then was due to very confused seas and the fact that we were running under twin headsails with no mainsail. The lack of a mainsail meant there was no sideways pressure thereby allowing the boat to roll more. On this passage we've kept the mainsail up and swapped the genoa over from one side to the other and gybed as necessary, subject to the wind direction relative to our desired course.

Meanwhile the grey, damp, rocking and rolling continues and it sounds like the wind is increasing again!

George cooks another tasty supper of pork steaks, potatoes and coleslaw. The pork steaks we bought in both St John's and in Greenland have been excellent - far better than those I usually come across in the Supermarkets at home.

I wash up and the read some more of the excellent novel that George has lent me. One he bought in St John's - historical fiction set in Newfoundland's early colonial days which explores the relationship between the English settlers and the native aboriginal Beothuk people, who are eventually wiped out. It's "River Thieves" by  Michael Crummey. Given my own recently developed obsession with Newfoundland's history, it's a very timely read. 

I knew nothing about the Beothuk before reading River Thieves and it's rather depressing to come across yet another native people that the English wiped off the map (and I think it was primarily an English as opposed to a British imperialism that underpinned the exploitation of the burgeoning colony).

I have however read some historical accounts and contemporary records documenting the development of the  Newfoundland fishery and subsequent colony and Crummey's richly descriptive word tapestry serves to illuminate those dry records with a penetrating insight into what the lives of the people fishing, hunting, trapping and trading must have been like in Newfoundland in those very wild times. It's as if he was there and witnessed the events himself - quite extraordinary!

And now back to the North Atlantic..

I go to bed at 1000 as usual and this time manage to get some sleep. 

Our midnight to midnight run in a straight line is 143 nautical miles. Our distance to Lands End is 928. Yesterday at the same time it was 1061 which means we're 133 closer. That is another good result!

Princ Christian Sund to ? - Day 4 - 27/8/25

That's what it looks like out of the back door most of the time and will probably continue to do so for much of the rest of the passage home.

When I get up at 0200 and change over with George things feel just the same as they did when I went to bed 4 hours earlier, but in fact we have just entered the transition period between the two weather systems and we are now on the eastern edge of the ridge of higher pressure following Erin. The wind is already further west than it was and over the next few hours it should moderate and back even further until it is blowing from the south west and then south. During that phase we'll have to change our sail plan and sheet the Genoa to leeward and sail closer to the wind in order to maintain a course south of east. Later still the next depression will pass over us to the north and we'll have strong north westerlies once again and have to change back.

George reported another vessel about 50 miles off on the AIS and it's still a long way off at 25 miles when I check and unlikely to  cause us any issues.

My Watch continues with no particular changes until the last hour when I notice the wind backing further - confirmation that we are being overtaken by the ridge of high pressure and that Erin, even at her now leisurely pace, has become tired of us and is leaving us behind. We are now heading further east than ideal (our heading is now north of Lands End)  but I wait for the change of Watch in an hour before making the necessary changes to the sail plan.

We make the changes at the change of Watch; set the Hydrovane to a beam reach and completely unfurl and sheet the genoa to leeward. That puts us back on a course just south of east.

I also pick up another vessel on the AIS at 84 miles and the former vessel is still there at 54 miles. They are bearing 355° and 230° so quite a long way apart. Both are underway at about 10 knots. I suspect they are the huge fishing factory ships that one comes across from time to time in mid-ocean.

1000 ish and the wind continues to back forcing us northwards and so I make a further adjustment to the Hydrovane to put us on a close reach and trim the sheets accordingly. This keeps us tracking just south of east at least for now.

1100 it's much quieter now and I take the opportunity to do the washing up from last night's supper, I even have the briefest of washes myself with a little warm water saved from the washing up kettle. Then I  cook bacon and eggs for breakfast.  Healthy granola and fruit are all very well and yes we still have 10 boxes of the stuff to get through, but sometimes a good fry up is just what's needed. Besides, this morning might be the last one for a while when wielding a frying pan in the galley isn't classified as an extreme sport!

We foolishly missed the Aapilattoq  supermarket closing at midday and so have run out of fresh bread, but we do  have two semi frozen loaves of a sort of Rye Bread and so start on that with our breakfast. Breakfast goes down well and is followed by proper coffee which is a treat too. Thankfully my bladder seems to be back to normal and is able to cope with the caffeine without giving me extra agro.

The wind backs further south during the day and then starts veering back to the west as the next low pressure system catches us up. We're keeping an eye on it but this time it doesn't look like we'll be able to avoid some pretty strong winds that are due to reach us on Saturday. We may have to heave-to when that happens and let the depression pass over us. Because its centre is just to the north of us and its tracking eastwards, the winds on its leading and trailing edges at our latitude are blowing from roughly the same direction - westwards. As the centre passes us we'll get brief periods of southerly and then northerly winds before they revert to the west. So don't be surprised if you see us slow right down on Saturday for 12 or even 24 hours before resuming once again.

By late afternoon today the wind has backed to the west requiring us to sail further away from it. That means we have to adjust the angle of the windvane - an easy job and set the genoa on the pole out to starboard. The pole is still rigged from before so it's a pretty straightforward  job to reduce the genoa's size (to prevent it from snagging on the inner forestay now rigged in the event of needing to set the storm jib - see the photos from the St John's post) and to then haul it across to the end of the pole.

That done I stumble across a recipe for soda bread on my phone whilst searching for the manual for OpenCpn. That's the chart plotter programme I run on the Raspberry Pi computer. I can't get my charts of the UK to load and need to investigate why. Later I conclude that it's because my subscription has expired and will need to be renewed. I can do that next time we have Starlink online.

Anyway back to the soda bread recipe. I decide to have a go at making some despite not having quite the right ingredients - the main one missing being wholemeal flower. I did have loads of it but it had got very old and so was thrown away. We did however buy some plain white flower in St John's and so I use that instead and add some porridge oats - that reminds me we haven't tried making any porridge yet. I use maple syrup and molasses in place of honey because while we do have honey it's all crystallised. We've no lemons - that was careless, but we do have a smigen of lemon juice left in a bottle abd sonI use that. It's pretty old so I fortify it with lime juice from the Carribbean which is where the molasses came from too. I mix it all up with milk and baking soda (also pretty old and from the Carribbean) as directed and put it in the oven for the required 40 minutes and this was the result...

It looks alright but we decide to leave it for breakfast so you'll have to read the next post to find out whether it tasted OK.

I boil some potatoes and carrots to go with the leftovers from George's mincemeat dinner of yesterday and we laze around until i go off Watch at 2200 and try, unsuccessfully, to sleep. The boat is just moving around too much and the pilot berth being high up exaggerates the motion.

By midnight we have travelled another 132 miles in a straight line and there are 1061 miles to go to Lands End which means we are also 132 miles closer to it than we were 24 hours ago. That's a result!