Angra and out and on the way to Horta

We departed Ponta Delgada around 0700 on Monday 26th July, bound for Angra do Heroismo on Terceria, a passage of around 90 miles. With moderate winds just forward of the beam we made reasonable progress until we got caught in the wind shadow of the island and so had to motor the last 4 hours or so. 

Steps felt rather queezy for most of the trip but by the time we were a few hours out he was feeling much improved and able to take the helm for a few hours. Vince bravely tried out the fore cabin to sleep and emerged a few hours later saying it felt like sleeping in a washing machine!

Approaching the marina in the dark was a little confusing but thanks to the chart plotter and benign conditions we avoided any mishap and made fast to the visitors' pontoon at around 0500 and caught up on our sleep.

We checked in once the Marina staff came on duty and motored round to a tight berth at the head of the marina. Thankfully there was next to no wind  because we over shot our slot and had to back up to get into it. Bonny has a mind of her own in reverse thanks to her long keel but with judicial fending off by the crew, both embarrassment and the disdain of our new French neighbours were avoided.

It turned out they were about to embark on an undersea operation. One of them had dropped his glasses over board and was most concerned as to the reaction of his wife who was due to join them in the coming days. He was therefore about to don goggles and snorkle to look for them. However, as he explained to Mick, he had not yet received both Covid jabs and would we therefore refrain from pooing until he had completed his mission!

Mick assured him that despite Brexit, being British citizens, meant we would not dream of embarking on such a course of action. As you can imagine the crew and skipper were most amused by Mick's account of this re-statement of the Entente Cordiale!

With an international incident avoided and cordial if not close relations having been established with the French, we went off into town to explore and admire some of the views....

Before long we felt in need of some refreshment and so headed for the town square where we were served first drinks and then lunch and more drinks by a very friendly waiter...

 

We reviewed our plans and itinerary over lunch. I had assumed we would stay for a couple of days at least and explore the island a little, but the winds were due to evaporate over the next few days and so we decided we would press on for Horta on Faial the next day. The winds would be light even then but we were hopefull we would be able to sail at least part of the 75 mile passage. We would then have the islands of Pico and Sao Jorge within day sails or more likely motors, or even Ferry trips. Departure was therefore set for 1000 the next day (Wednesday).

That evening we ate ashore at a Restaurant overlooking the harbour and were fed enormous portions of Azoren stew (beef) and other delecasies ...

 

So this morning, after a checking out and a quick shopping trip by Mick, we said Goodby to Historic Angra..

We played with the cruising shute for a while but the wind quickly faded and so we motored for the South West corner of the island to escape the wind shadow. By 1340 we had a steady breeze but at the same time I noticed a problem with the mainsail clue outhaul (the bit of string that pulls the back corner of the mainsail to the end of the boom). The plastic block had started to disintegrate and the line had jammed in it...

So in what would probably prove to be the freshest wind of the day we had to drop the mainsail and replace the block and line...

Thankfully we had spares of both and so were sailing again in 20 minutes or so.

We've had two fleeting sightings of Dolphins and/or small Wales but too far off to be sure.

It's now 1800 local time, we're about a third of the way through the passage to Horta by distance and I'm losing my data signal and so I'll try and post this now.

Ponta Delgada, Sao Miguel and Stephen and Vincent arrive.

The immediate surroundings of the water front at Ponta Delgada are not particularly beautiful, due in the main, to relatively recent additions. However, the town behind the largely modern front is much more attractive with many gems to please the eye....

Our less than serene arrival and rush to get the Genoa to the repair shop, was I think, partly responsible for the lethergy that set in over the next couple of days. Tuesday disappeared before I realised it had arrived. Mick explored the town and I did a little too. Wednesday we did the laundry and not much else, until that is the evening when we had Percy and Onya our new Irish friends round for drinks. Thursday was the day we should have made much better use of because we had to stick around on Friday to collect the Genoa. The trouble is, that only occured to us after we got up late! We did however manage a bus ride to Riberia Grande on the North coast of the island and spent a couple of hours wandering around. Very attractive it was too....

The most striking experience of the day though, was the bus ride itself. The bus driver drove the full sized coach at what felt like 40 mph through the narrow streets of Ponta Delgada and Riberia Grande with only inches to spare on each side. Any front door or window shutter, thrown open carelessly by the occupants, would have been ripped off its hinges without a 'by your leave'! The locals, however, both those on the bus and it seemed, in the various places we sped through, seemed entirely unconcerned by this phenomenon. As for the bus driver he seemed on automatic pilot. The only time he had to engage 'manual' operations' was when another bus came down one of the narrow streets in the opposite direction and too boot, had to get round a parked car. Our driver simply reversed nonchelently down the hill for some 1/4 of a mile to allow the other bus to pass.

That evening we had a very good kebap from a stall in the harbour front with great view of the moon...

Friday was a jobs day. Mick did an excellent job sealing the sink area in the loo and stabalised the platform on which the loo itself is fastened. Previously, time spent on the loo at sea was apt to make the occupant even more sick, because in addition to the boat rolling and pitching, the loo would rock backwards and forwards on its mounts!

I collected the Genoa from the repair shop and and fitted lee cloths to a couple of the bunks.

Later we did some shopping for boat stuff at the local Chinese shop and finished the day with a good fish meal at a local restaurant.

The rest of Friday remained quite windy (a feature of the last few days) and so we left bending on the Genoa until Saturday morning. 

I got up 'early' for once (0830) to a perfectly still morning. I woke Mick and the first thing we did was to move the boat to another berth which would be easier to get out of with any wind blowing. Then we bent the Genoa on, did some shopping, had a shower and emerged just in time to greet the boys as they arrived at the marina. Mick, meanwhile had been cooking dinner - a great chicken curry. Afterwards we went round to Pery's and Onya's boat, 'Hell Raiser' and had a most enjoyable evening with then and more than a few glasses of G&T 😁!

Today, after rising moderately late, we had breakfast ashore. The boys then went exploring and Mick and I did more provisioning.

Tonight we'll eat ashore and we plan to leave early tomorrow morning for the central group of islands with either Velas on Sao Jorge or Horta on Faial as possible destinations.

Oh what a cock-up!

We left just before 1100 and our passage to Ponta Delgada went without a hitch. We had light, increasing to moderate, winds, just forward of the beam and later just aft of it. The sun was out and it was a very pleasant sail. 

Bizarrely, I had a 4G signal for most of the passage and was able to make a family video call, connecting Jamaica, the UK and the mid Atlantic together. Quite surreal.

Mick cooked a great dinner of mixed kebab, rice and cabbage which we ate at dusk in the cockpit. 

We entered the harbour at around 2300, making it about a 12 hour passage for the 60 or so miles. 

After sorting out lines and fenders we headed for the reception pontoon in the old (Eastern) marina. Once tied up, a marina man found us and asked us to move over to the Western marina.

On arrival there the fun started. I had misunderstood the directions and we found ourselves in the small boat area of the marina without realising it, except that we did think the pontoons were rather small! I attempted to turn the boat round but with limited space and a freshening breeze that proved impossible. We got blown towards an empty berth next to....

There were actually lots of other empty berths with no neighbours, but Bonny had decided she wanted company for the night so in we went.

Fortunately for us a boat load of French people had noticed our arrival and difficulties manoeuvring in the marina and were on hand to help.

Unfortunately, I misjudged the approach and before we could get a stern line to our French helpers on the pontoon (shortly augmented by a Norwegian and his cat) the wind blew us on to Noctiluca's bow. Bonny's midships became both impaled and intangled on her stem head with one of her stanchions jammed into Noctiluca's bow rowler. Mick, fortunately, was close at hand and somehow managed to prevent any damage to either vessel but we were well and truly stuck, unable to go either forwards or backwards without making matters much worse.

Our French helpers were soon swarming all over the scene shouting instructions to one another and to us in French. The Norwegian dumped his cat on our neighbours deck (there was no one on board) and joined in, only to trip over a mooring line and go flying into the water much to everyone's amusement, including his own.

I was beginning to feel like a marine version of the hapless Basil Faulty with all the frenetic activity conducted largely in French, going on around me and I found it difficult to intervene without appearing rude.  Eventually a potential solution emerged from the chaos that we all grasped. If we could get a long line from our stern to the end of one of the nearby finger pontoons we might get the angle we needed to pull Bonny sideways off Noctiluca's bow. The question was would Mick's legs hold out long enough to avoid significant damage being done, both to him and/or the boats?

We got a line out but it wasn't long enough. A second was addded (it was at this point that the Norwegian went for a swim). Communications improved and our stern line was got to where it was needed and suddenly and thankfully, Bonnny was released from Noctiluca's embrace and we were able to moor up properly.

By 0130 or thereabouts order was restored and we said a thankful good night to the French and Norwegian (who had returned in dry clothes but without his cat) and Mick and I had a beer/cup of tea and finally got to bed.

This morning the wind had increased further but despite a mooring line having mysteriously untighed itself, all was well.

Just after 0900, I went in search of the authorities to check in and clear imigration and customs (no mention was made of Covid at all). I then found the sail repair shop and arranged to take our Genoa round for repairs. First though we had to get it off. A bit of a challenge in the stiff breeze but that was achieved. We should have it back by Friday.

Then breakfast at one of the Marina cafés. We caught up with our new Irish friends Percy and Onya there. They left Vila do Porto before us and arrived before us too.

Currently back at the boat with the wind whistling in the rigging thinking that despite missing meeting up with George yesterday, it was just a well we left when we did.

I've not ventured into what is clearly a very substantial town yet but my it certainly does not have the charm of Vilo do Porto. No doubt we will explore later.

Farewell, 'ships in the day' and a correction

Farewell to  Santa Maria that is though we may be back before long. We are now en route for Ponta Delgada and should be there later today. We are moderately close hauled on the port tack making about 3.5 knots. The wind is due to increase later so we should pick up speed then.

Whatever the opposite of a 'triumph of timing' is, occured an hour or so ago. My pal George who participated in the single handed 'Jester Azores Challenge' in his beautiful wooden sloop, ' Good Report', passed us about and a quarter off, bound for Santa Maria! I hope we are able bto meet properly before we both leave the Azores.

The correction is in regard to one of the boat's names quoted previously; it's "Tarmin" not 'Taremin'.

Another update from Santa Maria

This time (Saturday) we completed the walk and very enjoyable it was too. It was about 5 miles alng the coast to Praia Formosa. Some of the views like that above were splendid.

The guest whom I mentioned in the previous post was, believe it or not named "Bonny" or possibly "Bonnie" who is with her Dad on his beautiful Sparkman and Stevens sloop "Tarimin" pictured below.

Our other guest was Steve. A single hander Brit resident in the USA who had rebuilt his Westerly Konsort after it was virtually wrecked on land in a hurricane in the Bahamas in 2019.

Bonny's Dad, Alastair was a little under the weather and so did not join us but he came over yesterday morning for a yarn. A smashing chap and clearly a very experienced sailor (some years ago he did a delivery trip on 'British Steel, Chay Blyh's old boat). He was was very complimentary about Bonny which of course was good for the ego.

The reason for having guests last night was that Steve had bought a large fresh fish from one of the locals but didn't have enough gas to cook it. I therefore volunteered Mick's culinary expertise and Bonny's facilities to prepare and consume the said fish. Mick did a fantastic job and we all ate like kings.

When we got to Praia Formosa we were somewhat bemused to see this sign....

A closer inspection shows it is indeed a store of beach ashtrays! An indication of the different attitudes that exist in the UK and Portugal!

We then had another remarkably good value lunch...

Two beers and very substantial toasted sandwiches for €5.80! 

On our return to the boat, our French neighbours alerted us to a change in the weather and it's now likely we'll leave on Monday.

Today (Sunday) we have had a liesurely morning followed by omlett for lunch, on board. Once recovered we will go for another (shorter) walk - this time in the opposite direction - westwards from the harbour.

Tomorrow there will be three boats heading for Ponta Delgada; our French neighbours, our Irish friends, Percy and Onyar on "Hell Raiser", who we met in Funchal and ourselves. Alastair, Bonny and now Bubbles, Bonny's partner on board "Teremin", are staying on longer but also plan to cruise the islands so we may see them again. Steve, on his Westerly, "Khensu" is still to make up his mind about where he heads next. We'll have farewell drinks tonight.

I expect we'll leave around 1000 local time, (0900 BST). We should have light to moderate winds from the West and a flat sea and therefore a pleasant sail.

Update from Santa Maria

The view above is of the Marina and Harbour at Vila do Porto on Santa Maria. Bonny is berthed in the top left hand corner of the marina.

Today is Saturday and our original schedule had us leaving for Ponta Delgada on Sao Miguel, about 60 miles to the north and therefore a day sail with favourable winds. However, the winds are not favourable. Today they are blowing more or less directly from Ponta Delgada and whilst we would eventually get there if we wait until Tuesday we should have a pleasant cruising chute sail with the wind on the beam and so that's now the plan.

Stephen and Vincent are due to fly in to Ponta Delgada a week today to spend two weeks with us cruising the islands before we start the long haul (about 2 weeks) back to the UK.

On Thursday Mick and I explored the town. Initially we were on the hunt for a bus to explore the island but having failed to find one we undertook part of one of the local walks along the hills of the coast going eastwards.

A view back to the town.

Had we started earlier before it got so hot and/ or had we been made of sterner stuff, we might have completed the whole walk and got to the main beach on the south coast some 3 or 4 miles further on. But it was bloody hot and we weren't, so we didn't. 

Last night one of our guests from another boat told us that she and her father had completed the full walk and enjoyed it greatly.

So today we're going to try and do the full walk!

Voyage toll and stats

The blue line is the direct route from Funchal to Vila do Porto, the yellow is our actual track. The difference is largely on account of the wind direction. It would have been VERY uncomfortable to have aimed directly for Santa Maria at the beginning even if it was possible. We knew the wind would veer more into the east during the passage and therefore with the wind vane set to put us on a close reach we would automatically make ground to the North as it did so.

The straight line distance was 483 nautical miles, the distance actually covered was 584. Average speed was therefore 5.3/5.9 knots. 

On the toll side of things. The sacrificial strip on the Genoa is coming away from the sail, so it's either a lot of stitching by hand or find a sail maker in Ponta Delgada (none here).

The port side hull window leaks slightly and the depth sounder has packed up. A number of other minor snags but nothing of great importance.

As of now we are still awaiting our Covid tests.

Arrived Vila do Porto, Santa Maria 0820 BST 13/7/21

Still got to do the paperwork but it's only 0745 here and they don't start until 0900.

Day 5 and landfall Santa Maria

The south coast of Santa Maria with the lights of Vila do Porto ahead.

I didn't find the rolling conducive to sleep but did get some and we swapped round just after midnight. Our GPS was predicting arrival around 0500 BST when it would stll be dark so I rolled in some more genoa to slow us down a bit.

As at 0400 we have at ETA for 0700 BST by which time it will be light. Officialdom will not be up then and so the plan is to moor up on the reception pontoon to await further instructions. We think we will have to go for tests and then wait for results. No doubt there willl be forms to complete too.

It's 0705 and we have approximately 30 more minutes to go!

Day 4 at sea towards Santa Maria (12/7/21)

When I took over at midnight the weather and the movement were still lively and Mick was still fighting sea sickness. I made a couple of minor course adjustments to counter our 'drift' northwards caused by a slight veering of the wind. 

The lively motion of the boat made most of the berths difficult to stay in and so eventually Mick settled down in the Pilot Berth too.

The cockpit was frequently the target for mischievous waves and so tucked up tight under the sprayhood to avoid the worst of them. For a while it was benign enough to do some star gazing aided by the sky App on my phone.

Mick woke up around 0530 and so we swapped around then. He said the berth was wet which was a disappointment but on closer inspection it turned out the hull light (window) was weeping when the boat was heeling over. Hopefully this can be cured by tightening up the bolts a little but even if it has to be removed it's a relatively straightforward job to be added to the ever present list including re- stitching the sacrificial strip on the Genoa.

I finished off the bolegnase sauce and veg for breakfast.

It's beginning to look like we'll arrive at Vila do Porto in Sant Maria tomorrow morning. The photo at the top shows our rig from about 1400. The wind has veered further East as predicted and we now need it on the quarter to head for Santa Maria.

With the wind behind us the boat's motion has changed, less pitching and more rolling which Mick finds much more comfortable and is so feeling  better.

He sleeps for much of the afternoon until around 1800 when I hit the sack after a very pleasant afternoon in the cockpit. 

Day 3 towards Santa Maria (11/7/21)

Looking forward through the sprayhood window.

I slept pretty well until about 0730 when i got up and relieved Mick. I had noticed s change in the boat's motion from my bunk - a bit more rolly but Mick reported the motion was easier and he was feeling a bit better as a result. He's moved his sleeping quarters from the focastle-which is rather lively in these conditions- to the quarter berth (behind the chart table at bottom right below).

Below decks from the compaion way.

The sun had risen a little before but it took a couple more hours for it to reach the cockpit and dry things out - that is until the next rogue wave dumped itself in there. So far I have contrived not to be out there when the visitors have called, but it's only a matter of time. At midday it's too hot for waterproof gear and so when I do cop it I will get drenched. 

I've had two near misses whilst playing with the GoPro already! I was hoping to get some footage of waves breaking over the boat. Of course I missed the most spectacular one!

With 238 miles to run at midday we are now over half way in distance terms. IF we keep up this speed - around 5 knots - we should be in by Tuesday evening - assuming we are allowed into Vila do Porto on Santa Maria that is. I hope so, it's a charming island of which I have fond memories when Tony and I visited on Arctic Smoke in 2015. I left a very poor painting on the harbour wall. I wonder if any of it is left? Once online I'll have to look for photographic clues of its whereabouts.

Well, it appears I was being overley cautious with respect to the amount of sail to put out. By 1600 Bonny was losing the wind in the troughs and though we had not slowed by more than half a knot I thought we could do better without over doing things and so I shook out a reef. Of course the wind increased immediately but not excessively and we were soon bowling along at 6.5 knots plus and the boat felt far more purposefull. My laziness was finally overcome by my desire speed!

My appetite (but not Mick's) was back to near normal and so i cooked up some vegetables to have with the second installment of Mick's bolegnase sauce. It went down well but i did leave some for Mick just in case he got hungry during the night. A slight change to our normal routine saw me to take the off watch from 2000 to 1200. I slept pretty well despite the ride contiuing to be quite bumpy.

Day 1-2 towards Santa Maria (9-10/7/21)

Those with a keen eye for detail will have noticed that the wind vane in the photo above is blue not red as previously and is short and squat not tall and thin. That's because it's designed for strong winds which is what we got when we skipped out of the lee of the island at around 1800 on Friday (9/7/21) evening. We were expecting it and just before had hoisted the mainsail with all three reefs in. Within a few minutes it was clear they were all needed as were lots of rolls in the genoa.

We laid a course for Santa Maria, just under 500 nautical miles to the North West and were soon bowling along in that direction. It took a little while to sort out the self steering - attaching the vane with the boat jumping about all over the place was no joke but it was finally done. Then we faffed around somewhat getting the wheel/vane/sail set up just right but eventually all was sorted and we settled down to a bumpy, wet and windy close reach for the Azores.

Once again Mick took the first watch and got absolutely soaked more than once by breaking water on the boat. When I took over at 0200, conditions were much the same but I managed to avoid a real soaking.

We changed over again at 0800 and I got some more sleep for a couple of hours. Sleep disturbed by all sorts of noises a boat makes in heavy weather but most noticeable was the banging noise the anchor mafe on its roller as it flopped from side to side. I had tried to tie it down before leaving but clearly did not make a  good job of it!

After an hour or so there was a most enormous chrashing noise, a yell from Mick in the cockpit and water was pouring into the cabin through the roof. I thought the dam deck had split but then realised it was pouring in through the dorado vent in the deck. It must have taken a direct hit. Fortunately most of the water went on the cabin sole!

I relieved Mick just before midday and it looks like conditions have moderated some what. It might be time for more sail soon!

I did - a few rolls on the genoa but then about an hour later the wind was back up - not enough to warrant furling the genoa back up. The wind has backed and veered during the day requiring slight adjustments to the vane and sheets.

I felt hungy for the first time mid morning and consumed a salami sandwich. Mick's feeling a bit dicky so no food for him!

The day continued in much the same way. Fresh wind from the NE. At times it eases enough and we slow enough to make me contemplate making more sail but then it freshens again and I'm glad I didn't bother.

The boat, as I had hoped and expected takes these conditions in her stride. We are fairly close hauled and conservatively canvassed now with three reefs in the main and a couple of rolls in the genoa in around 20 knots of wind, but we're averaging around 5 knots and whilst more sail may add another 1/2-1 knot there doesn't seem much point and anyway I'm just too dam lazy.

Sailing in these conditions is not exactly enjoyable - all everday tasks are taxing especially going to the loo! So far since leaving mainland Portugal we've always been on the starboard tack. The loo is on the port side of the boat so staying on it is reasonably straightforward. Getting off it is more of a challenge. On the other tack it will be the reverse.

Mick still not a 100% so watch keeping based around his need for sleep. He sleeps in the afternoon and so I take the first night watch from around 2000. Before doing so I'm hungry enough to heat up one of Mick's excellent pre- cooked bol sauces. He risks a spoonful with half a slice of dry bread and I scoff the rest with two slices of buttered bread before hitting my bunk - the Pilot berth on the port side above the saloon table. A scramble to get into but once there quite secure on this tack. For the opposite tack I need to fit the Lee cloths Anita made.

Goodbye Funchal and Madeira

This morning Mick went off and did the shopping while i did the laundry and filled the water tank and generally prepared the boat for sea.

On Mick's return we established we had forgotten all about cake and so we both went out to get some and also Tonic!

That done we had a late breakfast or an early lunch on the town centre before heading for the boat.

We dropped our mooring lines arount 1410 and reversed out of the tight berth without mishap. Fortunately, there was little wind and we were able to turn the boat round in the small space available and get out of the marina without embarrasent or damage.

We cleared the harbour at 1430 and motored west along the coast for our appointment with the 30 knot NE winds funnelling around the North West tip of the island! That will be some hours away.

Once we get the wind we should have a brisk sail on a beam reach all the way to Santa Maria. We expect the passage to take around 5 days.

A second Post from Funchal

After the hard slog fighting with the battery on Tuesday we spent Wednesday at a more relaxed pace. I let Mick sleep in and went shopping for breakfast. That took us to lunch time! Then we did a number of tidying up jobs left over from the battery fight and those included included making sure the engine actually started which thankfully it did.

Lunch was VERY late - a sandwich at 1700!

Later in the evening we went in search of a meal ashore and after walking around a very quiet town centre we found a good prospect close to the marina. It turned out to be so good that Mick wants to go back tonight!

Today was a complete break from all boat related activities. We went for a long walk in the mountains along one of the island's famous "Levadas" - 'man' made  irrigation channels to bring water from the mountains to cultivated land nearer the cost. We found evidence that they date from the Victorian era...

You can just make out a date of 1906 on the top of this building. The function was not clear but it seemed likely that it had something to do with controlling the water flow.

First of all we had to get up into the mountains and we very nearly didn't. We chose the local bus service as our mode of transport. I went out to buy tickets from a local vending machine yesterday evening but when we presented them to the bus driver he gave us his best Paddington Bear stare and with clear relish, shook his head and said "No". When i asked if we could buy tickets from him he did the same. We retreated in some anxiety because the bus was due to leave in 5 minutes and searched the immediate area for somewhere to buy the wretched tickets. The ticket office was unattended. In desperation I accosted a local woman and tried to ask her advice. Of course she was one of the few Portugese who could speak no English and the stress of the occasion had seen off my ability to utter one syllable of Portugese! However, she got the gist and pointed to a bus driver indicating he could help. He explained we could buy them on the bus. In some confusion we made our way back to the bus in question to have another go. There was now another member of staff on the steps and he also confirmed that we could buy the tickets on the bus. So we asked the same Mr Grumpy bus driver the same question we had asked 5 minutes before and without batting an eyelid he sold us the necessary tickets!

Just under an hour later we had crossed the ridge of mountains in the bus and had started our descent down the other side and Mr Grumpy had dropped us off at the beginning of the walk. We had feared he would drive past without stopping but there were other passengers who needed to get off at the same place and so all was well.

The walk was an impressive experience. It started off in pretty dence undergrowth with a narrow path alongside the Levada being a channel carved out of the rock and built up with concrete and laid at a very gentle incline so the water gurgled alongside us as we walked along the path. 

After an hour or so the views across the island began to upon up....

We had a couple of local visitors..

Very very tame finches. Later when we had lunch they or their cousins were back and were almost eating out of our hands..

At this stage in writing up the post the App/Internet connection is playing up and i can't add any more photos and so i will end this post.

We plan to leave tomorrow for Santa Maria in the Azores.